It seems not right to all of surfer "high skillful and risky...

It seems not right to all of surfer "high skillful and risky career!"

It really depends on where you put your surfboard in, some prefer put it in the swim pool in the home backyard for extremely safe, some in a small river with little waves to enjoy the life, some in the big river with huge wave to challenge the life, and...

Where do you put your surfboard in? I like the huge wave in the river but prefer to tie me up to some posts along the shoreline. I don't think I could see every wave deep enough and always concern how to enjoy the challenge as long as I could.

So if I believe some wave could bring me to some high I never reach at before I would ride on it until I feel dizzy or could not sustain the pressure from the hiding forces in the wave. In the worst case I would like to push the string on the post to pull me back to the dry land.

However I do feel I am still not good enough on some basic skill to play the waves.