Once every one or two years a very big swell hits the coast. In fact we had two such swells hit both NSW and VIC earlier this year, about 2 weeks apart. It was the biggest ever recorded waves in Vic, down near Peterborough. I have never been out in those sort of conditions, but I have been out on a couple of really amazing days and here is what I learned (you may notice some similarities with trading AUM).
^Don't get in the water too early and blow your energy. If it really is as good as it looks, it will last most of the day, if not 2-3 days. Also, don't get in too late. Pay attention - who is in the water and who is out? Who left an hour ago?
^Really concentrate. Watch what others are doing, especially the hot surfers as they will give you a clue as to what's on the horizon and where/when the next set is due.
^While paying attention to the best surfers in the pack, never lose sight of your own goals and abilities. Know what you want. The biggest waves might be breaking at 10 foot, but could you survive the wipeout? Are you confident? No? Then wait for a 6 foot wave.
^If you find yourself manouvering around the takeoff zone in synch with the best surfers, expect that you might be 'in the zone' and ready to surf pretty well when your wave arrives. Wait and pay very close attention. Now you can shift your attention to the playing field and disregard the pack.
^How do you know when to go? When you feel high levels of confidence and excitement. GO!
^The likeliehood is that if the wave size is a lot bigger than you are used to, that you won't surf as well as usual, but that's ok; it will still be one hell of a ride. You won't fully relax, nor should you. I mean, your priority is survival, and being able to relax properly would take a LOT of practice.
^Repeat ....repeat....but be very careful not to lose concentration. The minute you do, a monster set may just sweep you onto the rocks or hold you under. Don't expect to be able to stay in the water your usual 2-3 hours. With much higher anxiety levels and concentration required, you may not be safe to stay in more than 1 hour. In that time you might catch say only 3 waves. The crowds are HUGE, but there are also LOTS of waves pumping through.
^GET OUT of the water either when your concentration levels start to dwindle OR when you notice a proper lull; (proper lulls last longer than the usual lulls and are indicative of a peak in wave activity).
^If you want to get good at surfing bigger waves, you go and live in Hawaii. If you want to get good at trading.....well I guess you trade currencies. Massive volume, massive $$$$$, massive risk. Not for me thanks!
AUM
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