From the Times (Just a story take from it what you will) BW
Pricey gold still keeps its shine Published:Feb 02, 2008
Family affair: Nitesh and Nagan Premji of Premji Jewellers with some of their sought-after wares
Bride’s delight: One of the wedding sets made by Premji Jewellers. The soaring price of gold has not affected their sales. Pictures: Richard Shorey
As the price of gold goes through the roof, Narissa Subramoney looks at the allure of the precious metal in the Indian community
Gold jewellery has always been synonymous with success and prosperity in the Indian community.
Tradition dictates that brides receive the most sacred pieces of jewellery, including thalis and mungalsutras (chains worn around the neck) and kangans (bangles), on their wedding day.
“In Hindu custom, exchanging of jewellery is a tradition, so jewellery purchases are still widely popular in the community,” says Nitesh Premji of Premji Jewellers.
“We have found that gold prices have not affected sales.”
And it is not only bridal ornaments that are popular. There is also a growing demand among Indian youth for male jewellery pieces.
“It’s all about the bling,” says Deepak Nathoo of Deepak Damjee Collection in the Chatsworth Centre.
“Chains, hand chains and rings, which are influenced mainly by Western pop culture, are now sought after by the younger generation Indian males.”
For females, the precious metal has not lost its charm.
“Chains are less chunky than before, and they are now two- toned — gold and white gold — rather than the old tradition of pure yellow gold,” says Baboo Soni of Mayuri’s Jewellers in the Chatsworth Centre.
Although Indian jewellery is evolving, the pieces still tend to be hand made.
“That is the main difference between a Western piece and an Eastern piece,” says Soni.
Western jewellery may be produced by the casting technique, which uses wax moulds, and the use of machinery for mass production.
“An Eastern bridal set takes me about two full days to complete, and everything is done by hand.”
The art of making gold jewellery and the intricate designs are passed from one generation to the next, particularly by the big-name retailers.
Traditionally, the craft — the origins of which can traced to the Indian state of Gujarat — required no formal skills. Today, young jewellers receive formal training, in addition to the skills that are handed down.
“I got into jewellery making for the love of it,” says Premji, who began his career when he was 14.
“During weekends and school holidays, I used to visit the family workshop. I started using silver wire to practice making basic chains.”
When he turned 19, he enrolled for a two-year course at the St George College of Art in London.
While their ancestors may have thrived in the trade in India, South African Indian jewellers recall difficult times under apartheid.
“Indians were not allowed to purchase gold directly from suppliers,” says Nathoo.
This impacted on pricing and the quality of the metal.
Many jewellers started their business with modest tools in a garage or small sheds using only silver, while stores such as Narandas and Damjee’s traded in the Madressa Arcade in Durban’s Victoria Street before expanding countrywide.
“The Indian jewellery market was very isolated during apartheid,” said Nathoo. “The survival and flourishing of the South African Indian jewellery trade is amazing. Not only were we isolated as traders, but we have survived globalisation.”
Among the challenges to their business is the relative accessibility to markets in Dubai and India.
Aashir Narandas of Narandas admits that while they have lost a few customers to those markets, they do not represent a huge segment of their client base.
“At the end of the day, it depends entirely on what the customer wants,” said Nathoo. “We have what you could call a South African Indian jewellery market which only South African Indian jewellers can cater for.”
