At the main beach of Albany this morning there was just a few people - but one a dedicated local surfer - not young, in his wet suit, with his board.
He was checking waves and zipping up his suit as I approached … Then put the board down and did two perfect somersaults behind the board before grabbing it and heading into the waves….
- I guess it was part of his morning ritual to prepare for gettimg dumped and check his flexibility? (i’ve only seen him either in the sea or exiting before)
Anyway the point is that yes - he was happy livimg here and using his body in the world in a way that made him feel alive and that’s how a lot of people are here
So why not you?
But cold in winter, and wild storms come through …and I guess many find life too quiet and maybe boring.
… Despite the photogenic aspects : )
