Could CMOs capture more value from peptides than they actually get from manufacturing services? This article outlines the potential of peptides in the pharmaceutical industry, but peptides also raise substantial interest in another health-related industry: the $3.5 billion anti-ageing cosmeceuticals industry. Dr Patricia Farris, a US dermatologist specialising in anti-ageing treatments, recently declared that peptides were “the new weapon against ageing and wrinkles”. Indeed, cosmetic companies’ ambition is to develop products with active ingredients that can rival the results of laser treatments or surgical facelifts. They are increasingly investigating peptides, which offer high potency at low dosages. Results came quickly: several peptides have now been launched on the market: Argireline (Lipotec), Matrixyl (Sederma) and Myoxinol (Cognis) – all Botox alternatives. Therapeutic Peptides, a private US company, is also developing two lines of peptides for use in skin creams and OTC anti-ageing products: Prolifersyn, a family of selected peptide fragments which stimulate collagen production, and Stimulysin, a family of small peptides that stimulate healing and destroy bacteria.
How could CMOs generate value from cosmetic peptides? As cosmetic companies buy peptides and use them at very low concentrations, pure cosmetic peptide CMO activities may not pay off. Still, specific synergies come to mind: CMOs benefit from privileged access to many peptides developed for therapeutic indications. Some may have strong potential as cosmetics. Would R&D companies want to retain absolutely all intellectual property rights on their prospective peptides knowing that they will focus solely on therapeutic indications? Or would they be willing to grant licenses covering cosmetic applications? An opportunity may very well lie here; CMOs could adopt a hybrid model combining a therapeutic peptide API contract services offering with the internal development of innovative cosmetics, thereby climbing up the value chain. In this respect, Spanish-based Lipotec may very well lead the way.
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