As the EU tightens the net on fast fashion and textile waste, one politician is quietly shaping the future of the entire industry:
Anna Zalewska (ECR, Poland). Zalewska is the lead negotiator for the European Parliament’s new Waste Framework Directive, and she's made it clear: brands must take financial responsibility for the entire lifecycle of the textiles they sell — including their end-of-life disposal and recycling."
Zalewska says the agreement would 'ensure that producers contribute to the effective separate collection of textiles they produce' while limiting administrative burdens for companies and member states."
The EU’s extended producer responsibility (EPR) directive will place the cost of textile waste squarely on the brands producing and selling the garments. All textile producers — whether based in the EU or selling into it via ecommerce — will be required to fund the collection, sorting, and recycling of their products. The measures aim to curb the growing volumes of textile waste and apply equally to fast-fashion brands and online platforms shipping into the bloc.
“The textile industry faces stricter obligations on the waste it generates. All textile producers… must fund the collection, sorting, and recycling of their products through extended producer responsibility schemes, with a deadline of 30 months from when the directive takes effect.”
Ultrafast fashion brands in particular are being targeted, as negotiators agreed that these business models should be considered when determining the level of financial contributions required under EPR schemes. While there’s no outright ban on low-cost, short-lifecycle clothing, the cost of compliance is expected to hit hardest those who flood the market with disposable items.
In parallel, new thinking is emerging around biodegradable materials. As one article points out, “EPR screams end of life, and you're never going to have an end-of-life solution for textiles… We need a front-of-life solution.” This is where Nanollose may become highly relevant!
Nanollose produces a patented microbial cellulose-based fibre that is tree-free and potentially certifiably biodegradable. If future regulations “eco-modulate” EPR fees — lowering them for products made with low-impact or biodegradable materials — then garments made from Nanollose’s fibre may avoid the heavy cost burden of recycling altogether.
One particularly powerful quote from the FT highlights the broader stakes:“The effects are personal and profound for millions of people, damaging to local economies and devastating for natural ecosystems… There are more clothes in the world than there are people to wear them.”
This is shaping up to be the textile industry's version of the renewable energy transition!! , from legacy waste-heavy systems to clean, circular and biodegradable supply chains that leverage off government policy. Companies like Nanollose may be sitting at the front of this curve.
Read quoted articles here:
https://www.ft.com/content/044a6437-6534-457b-a3bf-7022b7770cf7
https://www.ft.com/content/77b0a3bb-a550-46fd-895b-4810ce822e1e
https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/will-new-laws-help-or-hinder-fashions-waste-problem
Not financial advice. Do your own research.
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