He came from a very good family, had an awesome physique and was really switched on.
two of the world's greatest ever surfers
Michael Peterson, more switched on in the surf that anyone. genius surfer, competitor, waterman & surfboard designer. won every surfing contest at least once in Australia from 1973 to 1977
Andy Irons, 3 x world champion & one time runner up by one heat to 11 x world champ Kelly Slater. the only surfer ever to show himself to be better than Kelly Slater
Michael Peterson - undiagnosed schizophrenic, self-medicated using marijuana. hated the booze. when the police stopped the marijuana supply he turned to snorting heroin to become a addict. in 1982 was diagnosed with schizophrenia & locked away for a while. never surfed again
from 1:52
Andy Irons. diagnosed with bi-polar disorder when 18 years old. refused to accept. self-medicated. was clinically dead at 18 years old due to drinking spirits. was revived 3 times and went on a binge the next evening. with mega dollar Billabong behind him, obviously tried to kick his addiction (allegedly also to heroin) but obviously unable to
life is not a perfect place because every human being is born imperfect
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